DALE NELSON IRISH CRUISE NOTES
23rd May to 26th May, 2009
After many years! It was departure day for DALE NELSON’S very first “cruise in company”. As one thoughtful owner put it – the coming of age of Dale Nelson’s product and reputation. After many weeks of planning, fretting about the weather and the Irish Sea, and if they would be kind enough to allow us to cross in relative comfort, it was mid-day on Saturday, 23rd May, the sun was shining, the sky was blue, and there was a happy sense of anticipation and eagerness to get going amongst the skippers and their willing crews.
A South Westerly 4-5 seemed perfect for the first leg of our trip to Kilmore Quay, Ireland, some 70 miles or so from Milford Haven. A final tally of six boats. Four Dale Nelson 38’s and two Dale Classis 45’s, accommodating 14 stalwart owners and crew, plus two hitchhikers, namely Mike Reynolds and myself, who were hoping to make ourselves useful enough to warrant being allowed to cadge a berth for the trip.
Four of the boats, Dolphin V, Stella Rose, Morlo and Roxy were leaving from Neyland, whereas Geoff and Marilyn in Mainframe, had begun their journey from the South Coast some days earlier. They were making their way to Kinsale from the Scillies, where they would meet our “man in the Emerald Isle”, John Barry and his wife Kal.
Everyone was ready, as Jim Yeomans cast an anxious eye at his watch as his “boys only” crew had not yet arrived. Moments later they appeared, pushing an overweight marina trolley, laden with the essentials of a good weekend away. Yes! You’ve got it, vast quantities of beer and sandwiches. Watching their nervous faces as the trolley was manoeuvred down the pontoon with extreme difficulty as it was now almost at 45 degrees owing to low tide, did cause some amusement amongst the assembled company, and a touch of anxiety to those entrusted to hanging on tightly to the trolley!
With everyone aboard, we pulled away into the Haven. Rob and Jan, in Roxy had decided to go direct to Crosshaven in Cork to meet their daughter, whilst Colin’s suggestion that Mike show the other boats, the mysteries of Jack Sound, Skomer and Grassholm Islands on the way to Kilmore, was eagerly accepted. For two of the boats on the trip, this journey was a first and they were keen to make the most of the sights! Jack Sound, renowned for its turbulence in bad weather, was on this occasion placid and welcoming. As for Grassholm, nothing could have prepared the uninitiated for the sight that awaited us. As we approached the island it appeared to be snow covered, the last thing anyone expected at midday on a sunny May afternoon. However, all was revealed as we drew closer and we could see that the entire top half of the island was covered in hundreds of thousands of gannets, and many of them rose skywards from their nests to inspect the passing seafarers.
After our disbelief had been captured on camera, we set a course of 306 degrees for Kilmore Quay at an agreed speed of about 17-18 knots and settled down for our 3 hour run. Mike, on board Morlo for the trip had managed to restrain Caroline from roaring off at her preferred 20-22 knots! The sun continued to shine, and the sea, which was on our port quarter, continued to rise but the boats contentedly made good progress westwards, in the 2-3 metre swell which developed. All the boats kept comfortably in sight of each other, converging ever more tightly on the St Patrick’s Bridge Waypoint, at the entrance to Kilmore Quay.
Now as everyone knows, “what goes onboard stays on board”, so “no names no pack drill”, but a few people had forgotten their “oilies” and some felt more at ease out on the open aft deck rather than in the warm, comfortable and cosy wheelhouse where the majority gathered. One brave soul dressed only in shorts and a T shirt, and with that brisk South Westerly wind driving the spray across the aft decks, soon found life quickly becoming cold and uncomfortable, but he certainly demonstrated an ability to endure some arduous conditions without lasting ill effect.
We all finally arrived in Kilmore Quay at about 5.30pm. As soon as our wet but resilient crew member set foot on land, the cold blast of the Irish Sea was instantly forgotten and with that early eagerness still apparent, the thirst for a local hostelry became paramount! This desire rapidly spread to everyone and after a quick wash and brush up, followed by a short walk up the hill we found our venue for the night. Just what the Doctor ordered! We all quickly settled down to a great meal and a fabulous evening of music from an Irish duo which inevitably led to singing, dancing, red wine, red wine and more red wine! We wondered about closing time and then as midnight came and went, we stopped wondering about closing time! Finally, good manners dictated that we should go, if only to let the staff go home and so with “Rawhide” ringing in our ears we all merrily tottered back to the boats. Just one more bottle of red wine seemed appropriate and then to bed!
Somewhat, amazingly most of us were up again at 8am, although there was a suspicion that the crew of Dolphin V were still out for the count, as their boat was in total silence. I have to confess that I made a few jokes at their expense only to have to eat my words as I saw them returning to the boat from town clutching bacon sandwiches. They had been up before any of us and were now the envy of the fleet!
It was a beautiful morning, with sun shining and the sea as flat as a millpond. Jim and his trusty crew of Dolphin V decided that they were going to take advantage of the weather and make the return trip to Wales whilst it lasted, as some members of the crew had early deadlines for their return and the next few days’ weather was not entirely settled.
We had thoroughly enjoyed their company the night before and were sorry to lose them early in the cruise, but fully understood their decision. We wished them safe passage, as they set off cautiously owing to the very low water at Kilmore and promising to let me know when they were safe back in Milford. They all commented on how much confidence they had gained from the sea keeping abilities of their boat during the trip across and were rightly pleased at having made their first trip across the Irish Sea. I believe all concerned were now looking forward to venturing even further afield.
Not very long afterwards the remainder of us in Morlo and Stella Rose headed for Kinsale. We arrived at about 5pm after a delightful sun-drenched passage to find John Barry, Kal, Geoff and Marilyn waiting for us on the pontoons, having been there from the day before. John had our berths all organised. Rob and Jan, in Roxy, had also made it across the day before in what had apparently turned out to be a fairly rough sea state.
Geoff and Marilyn then kindly invited us all aboard Mainframe for those very welcome refreshments and a chill-out, as the sun goes down on the end of a passage. After catching up with the news of the other trips across the Irish Sea, and a quick shower in the yacht club, we walked together into the town, where John Barry had thoughtfully organised a lovely atmospheric room just for us, in a delightful restaurant. Everyone enjoyed a first class meal, dare I say washed down with the odd bottle of red wine - well eight to be precise! Those who were there know how many shared them, and yes midnight came and went once again!
The following morning, the priority was a check on the weather, which was changing rather faster than first anticipated. After a discussion with all the skippers, Colin and Caroline in Morlo, who had declared from the outset some unbreakable commitments in Wales on Wednesday, felt they had to make the return journey that day, rather than risk waiting for worse weather on Tuesday. I agreed to return with them. The other boats, decided to remain together and move onto Baltimore with Mike.
Before Colin, Caroline and I left on Morlo, John Barry quietly asked us if we would like a farewell coffee aboard Kaleba before we went. We readily accepted and after making Morlo ready, slipped around to their boat for the coffee. To our amazement and delight, Kal and John had prepared an absolute feast for everyone. I cannot remember all the specialities that were laid out, but if I say local salmon, crab, strawberries and cream, cakes and so much more, you will realise why I suddenly wished I was not in a rush to be leaving.
Eventually, Colin, Caroline and I bade our farewells and set off to refuel. After a bit of a hunt for the staff at the local Marina, we filled up at the very reasonable price of 60 cents per litre and headed for home. The forecast was for a Variable 3-4 becoming NW 5-6 later and so at about 1.30pm we set course for Milford Haven. Apart from some fog on the approaches to the Welsh Coast and into the Haven, the weather held and our 120mile run was uneventful, save for a wonderful greeting from dozens of Dolphins part way across the Irish Sea.
We arrived at about 8.45pm, just in time to find that the restaurant in the Marina had closed for meals. Not a problem for my resourceful hosts who prepared the most wonderful pasta meal followed by my contribution, of rhubarb and apple crumble donated by Kal, who un-beknown to me had recognised my passion for it the night before in Kinsale. She presented a ready made one to me just before we left. Bless you Kal! Did I mention that it was all washed down with a bottle (Oh! Alright more than one!) of red wine. I guess by now I don’t need to. Another superb evening where most of the “World’s problems” were readily solved yet again, and then to bed. Our inaugural cruise in company brought very happily to a conclusion for this year.
Following our departure for home, the others, no doubt having thoroughly enjoyed John and Kal’s gourmet meal, made preparations for their next journey. Rob and Jan in Roxy 12 decided to return to stay with their daughter and son-in-law in Crosshaven, whilst the remaining boats Kaleba, Mainframe and Stella Rose continued South to Baltimore thoroughly enjoying the beautiful Irish coastline along the way.
They arrived in Baltimore at about 1900hrs, where, once again, John had organised moorings. However, with a high onshore wind forecast John’s contact (The Baltimore Harbour Master) thoughtfully arranged for everyone to berth across the water on Shirkin Island. It was an absolutely idyllic spot on a sheltered pontoon owned by the local hotel. Once safely tied up and secure, the harbour master returned and took everyone by RIB to Baltimore. Then only a short walk together to another of John Barry’s hidden gems of a restaurant, where yet again the exquisite cuisine of this special part of Ireland was sampled eagerly.
After another memorable evening, and a walk back into Baltimore, Mike skippered the Harbour Master’s RIB, (with his permission!) and ferried everyone back to Shirkin Island. Was it off to bed? Not a bit of it! Just another short walk up the hill to the local pub for a night cap! Eventually, Mike left the group in good spirits, and headed back to Baltimore with the Harbour Master’s RIB, as he had to return to Wales on the Rosslare ferry the following morning.
Mainframe and Stella Rose both had lots more cruising time set aside and they agreed that they were going to continue their cruise of the Emerald Isle in their own right, over and above our cruise in company plan. Having come that far it seemed to make a great deal of sense. John Barry then returned to East Ferry, Cork his home base with grateful thanks of all concerned ringing in his ears.
Judging from the comments made throughout the trip, and during our evenings out together, it seems that everyone enjoyed this first cruising get-together of Dale boat owners. As requested over dinner in Kinsale, I am now making arrangements for an evening out at the Southampton Boat Show for those who would like to attend. Mike and I are also contemplating the next cruise in-company, which may well start from the South Coast, or West Country but more of that another time. Hopefully, when news of oursuccessful trip reaches the ears of other owners, we shall be able to enjoy their company on future occasions too.
Mike and I enjoyed ourselves enormously and would like to express our grateful thanks to all who took part for their company, good humour and incredibly generous hospitality. Hope to see you all at Southampton Boat Show.
Mike and Dirk 17th June, 2009